All about Stingray

Stingray modifications



I've been playing paintball using modified Brass-Eagle Stingray for 4 years , and it never let me down , Stingray proved an extreme reliable tool for painting my friends .I recently changed to a Rainmaker (will be heavy modified too) and that's why I updated this page one last (?) time.

Modifications DONE :

  1. Laser sight : The paintball and beam meets 20 meters from muzzle. The momentary switch are located on the grip (thumb-operated) the battery (9V) are in the grip.
  2. Trigger Adj #2 : Prevents the Trigger from returning more than necessary (few 2-3mm) to catch the sear.
  3. Trigger Adj #1 : Makes the trigger be as close to "trigged" position as possible by lifting the sear.
  4. Steel Plate where the trigger lifts the sear.. Increases accuracy of trigger.
  5. The hammer-tube and hammer (aluminum) is polished , the hammer's O-rings reduced for smoother action.
  6. The barrel shroud have fine tape attached to it , more accuracy , no barrel movement.
  7. A piece of barrel shroud (1 inch) is removed to reduce turbulence when the ball exits the barrel. (no picture) (gave no significant improvement)
  8. The barrel (aluminum) is polished and always lubricated with Teflon-oil
  9. All Stingray's moving parts are frequently lubricated using Teflon-oil

TO DO :

  1. Drill muzzle-break in barrel.

  2. Buy a good aftermarket barrel / modify another standard barrel.

  3. Join the two pins that holds the barrel in-place , That will allow really quick barrel-change , no other marker I know can change barrels (in case of ball brake) quicker in game.


STINGRAY FAQ & FAQ SUPPLEMENTARY

(ripped from misc stingray sites/boards and/or any other source)

 

WARNING

I am not responsible for anything you screw up. If you don't think something sounds right e-mail me, and I'll clarify. 
All of the methods presented have already been tried out and work well unless otherwise noted. 
Whatever you do you do at you own risk. So there.


1.5 HOW IT WORKS:
Here's a general run-down of how the 'Ray functions: The CO2 is sent through the Donkey, through the Transfer Tube 
to the Valve Body where it waits to be released. The Cocking Screw is pulled back and the Sear catches on the Hammer.
The Hammer is pushed forward a bit by the pressure of the Hammer Spring which allows the Trigger to manipulate the Sear.
When the Trigger is pulled, the Sear is disengaged from the Hammer and the Hammer slides forward to push in the Valve Stem. 
While the Hammer is sliding forward, it also slides the Bolt and a paintball forward into the barrel. When the Hammer pushes
  in the Valve Stem CO2 is blasted out the front to fire the paintball and blasted out the back to cycle the action. The Hammer is
  blown back, smashes against the Hammer Bumper and catches on the sear, ready to fire again.
1.6 SID'S NOT-SO-HUMBLE OPINION:
I've had a Stingray for a while now, I've put a few mods on it and made most myself. I still go to the field for Open Play and listen
  to the Auto-Maggots and 'Cocker-Suckers blather about how many gajillions of dollars they sunk into their markers. I still get "The Look"
  (a very common look of puzzlement and condescension), and these mutants chuckle at having a 'Ray at their field. OF COURSE the 'Ray
  is inferior, it only rings in at around $90.00. "There is just NO WAY that a marker which costs so little can defeat me and my
  Joey-Driscoll-Signature-Series-Super-Bloat-Blaster-XV9600!(tm)", they say. Oddly after the game, many of these people -now wearing a plethora
  of non-toxic flavors, give "The Other Look" (fear and disbelief).
1.7 MORAL OF THE STORY:
Judging a player by the price tag of his marker will only earn you a lot of time in the Deadzone.

2.0 GENERAL DISASSEMBLY/CLEANING/REASSEMBLY

3.0 IMPROVEMENTS AND MODS (STUFF YOU CAN'T LIVE WITHOUT)

3.1 IMPROVE RANGE AND VELOCITY VALVE MOD:

  1. Remove and disassemble the Valve Body
  2. Place some Fine Grit Emory Cloth on a hard, flat surface and sand down the outside face of the Valve Seal Retainer -This will allow the Hammer to push the Valve Stem farther. DO NOT sand it down so far that you don't have anything left for the screwdriver to catch on (Duh!).
  3. Take the Valve Stem and polish it with the Dremel Moto-tool's felt polishing tool (can be done by hand, but is Very tedious) and the No. 7 Rubbing Compound (or similar). The Valve pin should appear chromed, and very, VERY smooth. This will allow the pin to move with less force.
  4. Polish the Bolt Guide tube to a chrome-like finish. This will allow the Bolt to glide smoothly and efficiently.
  5. Remove the Velocity Adjustment Screw and place a small piece of Teflon Tape on the threads (this prevents ANY escape of CO2).
  6. Enlarge the Velocity Adjustment Screw hole in the Receiver with an Electric Drill and the X-Acto Knife. Be sure to remove the plastic shavings from the inside of the Receiver. This will allow you to unscrew the Velocity Adjustment Screw farther.
  7. Reassemble with lots of ATF Fluid (Make sure every last trace of the Rubbing Compound is GONE or there will be problems).

4.0 AFTERMARKET PARTS

5.0 MISCELLANEOUS TIPS & INFO:

6.0 CLOSINGS, ACKNOWLEGEMENTS

 

STINGRAY FAQ SUPPLEMENTARY

1.2 INTRODUCTION/WHY ANOTHER?:
Since the first STINGRAY FAQ, I have received an enormous response by players who have tricked out their Stingrays and are enjoying the exceptional performance gained from a little shade-tree airsmithing. 
Not only that, but many players have taken the information contained in the FAQ and have taken it a step further. 
This FAQ contains the information to do just that - To take the Stingray a step further.

1.3 GENERAL INFORMATION:

  Name:          Stingray
  Manufacturer:  Daisy/Brass Eagle
  Manufacturer's Address:  BRASS EAGLE
                           P.O. BOX 220
                           RODGERS, ARKANSAS 72757
  Manufacturer's phone#    (800) 643-3458
  Calibre:       .68
  Action:        Semi-Automatic, Blowback Open-bolt design
  Price:         NEW $85-$100  USED $50+
  Length:        23" (unmodified)
  Barrel Length: 12" (unmodified)
  Weight:        3.6lbs. (unmodified)
  Materials used: Aluminum, Steel, and some Black-Colored, Alien
                  Engineered, plastic-like substance

1.4 SID'S NOT-SO-HUMBLE OPINION:
The 'Ray is here to stay! There is no doubt in my mind that this is the paintgun for the tinker-freak. I have spoken with some 'Cocker Suckers and Auto-Maggots at the field who spout, 
"When you buy any other marker, they all look the same. Cookie-cutter paintguns. But when you buy a Joey-Driscoll-Signature-Series-Super-Bloat-BlasterXV9600(tm), you can upgrade in so 
many different ways! That's a custom paintgun." I tend not not to agree. How are they so custom? I bought a Laso(tm) Barrel and he bought a Bart Parts(tm)!?!

After the FAQ was published, it seemed the Glenn Palmer in all of us emerged and I began to see some *CUSTOM* designs on the field. Great ideas were hatched, ingenuity was the rule. 
I began receiving E-mail from players who had done things I truly never imagined. They are TRULY producing custom markers -and they have enough ca$hola left over for paintballs and a pizza (or, well... more paintballs!)! 
This FAQ is dedicated to those players - They are the ones who help keep the sport original and fun.

1.5 THE DREADED DISCLAIMER:
Once again I wash my hands of all your actions. Know that I refuse to take responsibility for your doings. Heck, I don't like to take responsibility for half the stuff I do. Always remember, CO2 and especially Nitrogen or 
Compressed Air is DANGEROUS if misused/treated carelessly. Be careful, use safety equipment and ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE GAS FROM THE PAINTGUN BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO TINKER. 
If anything seems unclear, I'll be more than happy to clarify or answer any questions. If you would like to sue me for damages, I never wrote this. ;-)

2.0 SILENCING THE STINGRAY

2.1 EXPLANATION:
Stealth is a very handy option when playing paintball. Sneak in, sneak out with the flag - without giving up your location. Unfortunately, this wasn't much of an option with the Stingray. 
While not as loud as a Stock Spyder (CRRRACK!), it will let any nearby opponents know where you are... until now... This section is almost completely the work of Tom Holder. 
He has completed these mods and tested them with a sound meter (gotta be scientific). A dramatic decrease in sound was noted. He concentrated on two areas -Muzzle Blast, and Mechanical Noise.

2.2 REDUCING MUZZLE NOISE BY PORTING I:

NOTE: This only works when the barrel shroud is cut back.

2.3 REDUCING MUZZLE NOISE BY PORTING II:

NOTE: This only works when the barrel shroud is cut back.

2.4 REDUCING MUZZLE NOISE WITH A SOUND SUPPRESSOR:

NOTE: The noise suppression qualities are enhanced when used in conjunction with a ported barrel.
NOTE: Use of an unlicensed suppressor on a real firearm is illegal! This suppressor is not for use on a firearm, it will not endure the 
stress of a muzzle blast. Contact the local BATF for any further questions.

2.5 REDUCING MECHANICAL NOISE AT THE COCKING SLIDE:

NOTE: This reduces much of the noise associated with Blow-back type semis.

2.6 STOPPING THE TANK FROM RINGING:

2.7 STOPPING MECHANICAL NOISE FROM THE GRIP:

3.0 BARREL SHROUDS & ACCURACY

3.1 EXPLANATION:
Since Bill "Bizboy" Mills' idea for cutting back the barrel shroud for accuracy (the piece of plastic at the end of the barrel acts as an 
"anti-muzzle break", and cutting back the shroud allows for porting to work correctly) was published, the idea has been improved. I'm going to use illustrations to make it as clear as I can.

3.2 THE ORIGINAL METHOD:

                                                            _
STOCK BARREL CONSISTENCY:

FAQ's are collected , converted & modified by me